Today it will be a history that might will affect you, what knowledge do you got about first aid? The history of aGuardian angel on the mountain. (Torgy Roxå was saved due to a guides with knowledge and sensory presence)
The 10th of March, the day before the first death of corona in Sweden, Torgny Roxå are at the Storulvan mountain station. He and his wife has decided to go towards Sylarna on ski for the first time. Due to their lack of experience, they have decided to use a guide and be a part of a group. It is after breakfast, and the group has started the skiing. After they have reach the saddle at the west part of Lillulvafjallet the group stopped for a photo and breath out. Then of a sudden everything become black for Torgny. He is laying totally still, not breathing. The heart has stopped beating. The two guides in the twenties has recently completed a CPR training. They start the CPR and at once alarms the mountain station and the ambulance helicopter and the mountain rescue. One of the crew at the mountain station jump up on a snowmobile and bring a defibrillator with him. After 10minutes the snowmobile is in place and they can put on the defibrillator. Of a sudden they can here a noise from Torgny. He probably grasped for breath. The mountain rescue shows up with a oxygen mask, and now his back. A couple of minutes later the helicopter lands, and bring him to the hospital. Today Torgny is back, but follow the restriction after the surgery.
At the mountain station you might have the opportunity to meet a lot of different personalities who nests here. First the ”polar fox” they are easy to recognize. always wearing the Fjallraven out fit. And everything else in the gear will be classic. Due to that they don’t use wool (using synthetic instead) you can smell them. Or you will here them telling you that it is much better to be in cabin, less with people and less service that’s the best they tells. The second one will be the beginner. This one can be a bit difficult to recognize, due to their gear is mixed. A backpack borrowed from the neighbor (probably a Haglofs Skarja from the 80s) but a new sleeping bag from the brand Everest. They are easy to recognize in the reception asking 200 question of weather and the trail they are going to hike next day. The next personality is the Messersmith. He is easy to find, he is sitting in the sauna and telling all tours he has done. If there is any possibility to start bonfire anywhere, be sure i is there trying to fire. He also often help the reception crew to tell the beginner what or how to do everything. The gearjunkie, is the next one. He or she always got the latest color on the Gore-Tex jacket. With a new ice axe and never used crampons he/she is the real explorer. When the Messersmith is trying to light up a fire the gearjunkie bring up his ignition steel in stealth carbon. Looking at his watch telling its going to be +4 degrees tomorrow. However we got the biggest nerd left. He/she is easy to recognize. Sitting in a corner, with long hair preferable in a ponytail and with a google tan. Hanging over a map, quite looking around the room. Yea, you guess right it is the guide. A quiet thinker, that the profile…
Take a nice cup of coffee, turn up the volume. Laid back enjoy this movie..(great Simon Jaktlud)
Time to open door eighteen, and today we will meet Pata Degerman from Finland. Pata is the only real explorer from Finland. He has been doing a lot of adventures. Being an explorer Pata has travelled globally on adventures involving, different climbing discipline’s, kayaking, hiking, off-road driving and many other forms of adventure. His expeditions have ranged from the Arctic to the Antarctic, Himalayas, Jungles, Oceans and many other somewhat unexplored regions, sometimes even to regions that have never been drawn on maps. The last 20 years Pata have organized and led numerous expeditions around the globe. Over 40 trips to the Arctic areas in Iceland, Spitsbergen and Greenland and five expeditions to unvisited areas on Antarctica (Ellsworth mountains and Queen Maud Land). Expedition Arcada – Adventure for life. Arcada University of Applied Sciences and 45 students joined forces with adventurer Patrick ”Pata” Degerman and a wheelchair athlete Aron Anderson during spring 2015. Our goal was to scale a 300 meter tall, perfectly vertical mountain wall in La Grave, France, after months of preparations in Helsinki, Finland. The students got to climb the wall, but also work with things related to their studies. Not only was the expedition learning by doing at its best (what Arcada is all about). The adventure also gave all parties involved a chance to stand out, test and develop new products, methods and concepts. To help us we had a great team of experts, mentors and sponsors. Check out our adventure below! The climbing expedition took place 7-15 May 2015 in La Grave.
The seventeenth of December and todays topic will be Mental strength. While be in the mountain environment you will need to have a mental strength. Why? Well you will end up in situation were you will need to have the strength to continue or stop. So here you will get some advices for developing that skill. First of all train to focus on the moment. The challenge is here and it is now, focus you energy on the present moment and not what is right before you. Next will be to embrace adversity, remember the obstacle in the past you have overcome. Exercise you mind , To gain stamina, take on a daily task that stretches your mental endurance. Challenge yourself, with to easy goals you will always be in the comfort zone. Get out of it and do it harder and in new ways. Respond positively you can not control everything, bur what you can control is your reaction of things. Incredible progress can happen in your life and leadership when you take control of your reactions. Be mindful, To be the most resilient and mentally strong, make the time to be mindful so you can focus on what you truly want. Train the ability to become more mindful. Don’t be defeated by fear, so what does this really mean? If you know (which of course you know) some of your fear, try them. Hold the lecture, write the book, dispute the decision etc. Always remember: failure is an event, not an identity. When you feel as if you have tried everything you can to achieve your goal, and you still haven’t made it. Keep the focus up, and strive, strive for it. That will build up your mental strength. So, tell me what is your next step for becoming stronger mentally?
A calendar without Torsten Boberg is not a calendar. So today we honor the role model of Swedish outdoor.
From the book Beyond the paths (bortom sigarna) I will give a part. The first winter ascending of Kebnekaise. The sun would be the master, and at the thermometer we could se the quicksilver pillar raised during the day. Standing close to the top shelter we went to the South peak of Kebnekaise. Looking toward the sky,, in the east and south the sky still is clear, but north west something is going on that does not escape attention. where the white cold clouds approach in an endless line. And if listen carefully you can hear a hiss in the air. Here it is still calm, but the nice weather will soon end. We isn’t got a minute to loose. The distance between the peaks is approximal 800m the ridge passage normally will take us an hour. At twelve a clock we were standing at the north peak. The ascend was fully done. The grey haze had moved closer. Of a sudden we was interrupt in our dreaming of a small detail. A protective paper from the camera film has been laying on the snow. A wind caches the paper which goes up with the wind. Our eyes tunes toward north, and we can se the ”smoke” over the peaks. Kebnekaise has started to breath. Now it is the wind shelter we must heading for before the storm will catch us. The only way is the ridge. The snow ridge shall not be forced, all care must be taken even on the way back. The wind blows and strikes in our clothes, already the cloud sea starting to cover the sun…
The thing that is interesting about Torsten Boberg is that the trails we hike today, such as the Jamtlandstriangle for example has been done/planned from him. So give him a memory next time you going toward Sylarna.
Today it will be about having good habits. When it comes to outdoor it is a good thing to have habits that supports you. So here come the first thing; surround you with good people that supports you. The biggest doubter is yourself, and if the people around you doesn’t support your dreams you will get stuck. And think of this; Time is spend, it is the moment that is crucial.
Ok so that was the philosophical part, now we move into the hardware. When it comes to the outdoor area there are small and bigger habits that matters. So let start like this; In the service(Army) I’ve learned a lot of good habits that I have kept. One is to always bring a spoon in a pocket close to me. This means if food is showing up I can eat. Today I have it in the top lid of the backpack. Next thing is the first aid kit. I always have that as well in the top lid, and I am telling everyone on the tour that it is there. Now everyone got it. Another habit I’ve learned as a professional guide is to start the day with a risk analyze. I think everyone in the mountain area should do that. Just a short over thinking of what can happen and what is my mental preparation for it? And if you bear in mind a sort of three step thinking(another good habit I learned in the army) . How will this decision affect me in the next step? Ok so now I am ready for the hike, what will be my next good habit? Well while hiking do not step on the stones or obstacles, better to step over or behind. This will save your effort. Heat, never get sweat. So adept your clothing to the temperature. When you have come to the lunch, secure you will have extra clothing close to hand, and also a beanie. When it is time for the camp or cabin get structure or your steps. Make dinner and warming up water for the thermos. If it is winter secure you got snow near to garb and melt in the morning. Before you got to bed, do (ready for a new day of hiking/climbing? Do the good habit) the hygiene routine and check the WBWS: Warm water bottle, Check the Boots(were to store them during night, and so they are ok) Check if you got any Wounds, especially on hands and feet’s. And at last put your Soles into the sleeping bag(or dry them) Put on the beanie and go to sleep. In the morning you got the Thermos ready and snow/water to boil for the lunch. Now you are ready for the next day of hike/climb.
Here you can get inspiration for X-mas gifts for the mountaineerer.
Today we open door fourteen and today I will give you a guides advice. First of all I would like to talk about skills. To become a good outdoorer you always need to develop your skills. For being able to do that, you need to understand from were you are going. So start with a inventory about your level in navigation, river crossing, first aid, weather, bivouac technic, clothing. Also add winter skills such as avalanche, bivouacking and winter tenting, frost injuries, skiing. Add your physical level to it and you now have a schedule to work on.
Guides advice about equipment; You pay for what you get, I have seldom regret things I bought for expensive money. But I’ve sworn over bad equipment which has broken. But it all becomes from the activity and area you are in, as well as how often you are doing it. I look into details and features. If there are pockets at the right place etc. This will tell me if the brand knowing what they are doing. But if you are a top freak, then is should be as stripes as possible. So you cant go for that advice always. But boots, backpack and shell layer is the place to be carful with. And of course tent, this will you live with for at least 15 years.
Ok, so now you got the area you want to develop, and you got the right gear. What’s next? Now its time for planning. So next advise will be; make a plan. Defined a plan for what you will develop and explore. A rough plan will be good enough. To detailed planning only means that as fast as its done it will be out of date so to say.
Ok, so now its time for the developing of your skills. How to do that? Now the guides suggestion will be a…..guide. Why? Because she/he will help you out with becoming better. This advise also included guides. See and learn. It is always good to see and hear someone else to describe an area. So hire a guide at lest for a day to get better knowledge.
Now we have come to the last step, now you will find out your own needs of equipment and what to bring. I always carry at least three things in my pack. First a wind shelter, then a saw and of course a first aid kit. Then I am prepared for the most. Also a compass and a map, but that is basic.
At door two I was writing about weather from a holistic perspective, today I will talk more specific about the mountain weather. I’ve been talking with Klas Kempe and Hakan Hultberg both meteorologist with deep competence in this area. When it comes to mountain weather, the prognosis maintained a high quality. The first advice will be to listen/read to the latest report. And one very important fact, never ever ignore a warning. Prognosis is a fresh product, so be sure you always got the absolute latest version. Today we normally got the technical condition for being able to do that.
One important thing to understand about the mountain prognosis is that prognosis Modell must be slightly smoothed for computational reasons (model resolution).You can not include all tops e.g.and Sarek.The Sarek massif will be a leveled mountain massif with an altitude of 1200-1400 meters and slightly above.This also applies to Kebnekaise.Local effects can therefore be worse than what is said in forecast. This is also important to understand.
Katabatic winds is another phenomena you have to have in mind in the mountain areas. Katabatic wind is sometimes also called falling wind, but the latter can also be downward wind from Cumulonimbus clouds (village clouds / thunder clouds). A variant of catabatic wind is when cold air that has stagnated on a high plateau is suddenly set in motion. Stagnant air in winter in high pressure can, over snow surfaces, become very cold. In valleys severe cold but on bare scales and peaks never as cold. If the high pressure weakens and breaks down, the wind can increase and set the cold air in motion. This really heavy air (high density) accelerates due to the gravitational force, down slopes and ravines. The wind can then reach storm strength (25 m / s), extremely even hurricane (33m / s), at least in the wind gusts. If the air has a temperature of -15 degrees, the perceived temperature in a storm or hurricane will be below -30 degrees with a high risk of freezing or if you are unprotected for a long time also cooling, which is very dangerous (Anaris). Often the increase in wind comes quickly. There is a warning sign. If you travel in calm and nice mountain weather but see a snow drift from the peaks (the peaks are smoking) or you hear how the wind higher up ”thunders”. Then you should be prepared to seek protection. In addition to Anaris, strong katabatic winds can hit the Riksgränsen and Torne Träsk area when cold stagnant air from Kebnekaise is set in motion by strong south winds. This of course also applies to other areas with similar conditions. We often have a much more modest variant of katabatic wind at night when cooled air flows down slopes. Then it’s about someone or a few m / s.
Lay wind.
Waves form in the air when passing a mountain range and under certain conditions. The flow should be perpendicular to the mountain range with a deviation of about 30 degrees. Westerly winds (270 degrees) are common in the mountains, favorable then 240 degrees to 300 degrees. Another condition is that the wind increases with height, which is most common. A third condition is that the air at the passage of the top or ridge is stably temperature-layered (explained in book and course), which means that the air is forced over the mountain (against its will) and returns as quickly as possible to its original position (equilibrium position). This stability gets the air gets the air by flowing over cold snow. Especially if the reading side is steep, the air rushes down to the equilibrium position and can accelerate sharply. There is thus no shelter on the reading side, it blows much more than on the windward side. There may be a storm or hurricane, at least in the wind gusts. A typical example is the steep reading side of Helagsfjället (winter) at these wind directions. A reading side that is not steep, slopes slowly, never gets as strong a gust of wind. The increase in wind can come quickly and very unexpectedly. 10/1 2019, the wind was westerly over Helagsfjället. At 07.00 in the morning, an average wind of 3 m / s was measured with 7 m / s in the wind gusts. 10 minutes later the average wind was 4 m / s with 19 m / s in the wind gusts and 10 minutes later 13 m / s and 28 m / s (storm gusts). The highest village wind speed at Helags so far is 52 m / s (hurricane villages are 33 m / s). Here it is enough to travel a bit north towards Sylarna or south towards Ramundberget to avoid the worst winds. Another example of strong winds is Stekenjokk. Here it blows most winter time in the sector north via west to southwest. The air then flows over the snow surfaces on BØrgefjellet. At the Swedish border (the stable temperature-layered air) the air falls between 300 and 400 meters and accelerates. The highest average wind speed is 48 m / s, in the wind gusts it was then over 60 m / s. The wind at Stekenjokk can be considered extreme, but it also affects the mountains nearby, such as Borgafjällen and Marsfjället, as well as the towns of Kittelfjäll and Klimpfjäll.
Venture effects.
When the air blows through a valley that is somewhat in the wind direction, the wind speed is increased. It is the same phenomenon as when water in a hose is forced to pass a constriction. Then the speed of the water increases. The increase in wind can come quickly. A good example is Stora Sjöfallet when the wind turns to the northwest (which is in the direction of the valley). The wind speed can then be moderate up at Ritsem where the valley is wide. The valley narrows considerably at Suorva and Stora Sjöfallet, which means a marked increase in wind. In strong northwesterly winds (behind a low pressure) the wind can reach storm strength, hurricane 38 m / s in average wind has been measured. The strong northwest wind then continues down towards Saltoluokta. In the entire mountain range there are valleys that are narrow and where the wind can blow more than in the forecasts. In Sarek and Kebnekaise, such valleys are very common. Further south, e.g. Syterskalet and in Jämtland / Härjedalen all valleys at Lunndörrsfjällen. If you know the wind direction and approximately how much is expected to blow in the forecast, you can assume that they will be worse in narrow valleys. Sometimes a combination of catabatic winds and the venturi effect can produce strong winds. A typical example is Sylarna by wind around the south. The air is then forced up over the slopes north of the Squirrel Pass. After passing the pass height, the air flows down towards Sylarnas mountain station, accelerates and is also affected by the surrounding high mountains (venturi effect). With a northerly wind, there will be no significant increase in wind at Sylarnas weather station. The strongest winds occur during the winter months when the low pressure activity is greatest. The air is then heavy and cold. In summer, strong winds can occur on the bare mountain, but usually for a short time, generally less than a day.
Today we open door twelve, and today it will be about mountain cabins. With crowded hike trails , and overfull mountains stations an alternative would be to spend the nights in a nice mountain cabin instead? Here it will be more ”airy” and more spartan. Here you have to take some more responsibility, which means to carry water and chop firewood. with its own stove in the room, the atmosphere will be cozy. However there is a risk that a middle age man will have his synthetic undershirt with a day of moister with the smell in your vicinity. But I still can remember the night me and the mountain men Jansson spend at Stensdalen.
Sleeping in a room with 6 other wild men. But the atmosphere in the cabin, when the stove was fired up could not be mistaken. One of the other cabin I can recommend will be the Nallo cabin in Abisko/Kebnekaise area. The summit trip to Nallo is a reasonable challenge even for those who do not usually climb peaks and it is also possible to ski around Nallo mountain.In beautiful weather, a climb of Nállu is highly recommended.From the top you can see all the way to Kebnekaise’s both peaks.
Nallo 2014
The area is also fantastic for skier, here they can live out the ”white dreams” of skiing.
Time to open door eleven, and see if we can learn more about cold injuries and hypothermia. This is an area which we can dig much deeper in, so I will have a own blog for this topic further on. First of all is the importance of predicting work. So understanding how this type of injurie works is crucial for avoiding it. Fist we can divide this type of injuries in two areas; Frost bites without icing. This category often mention as “immersion foot”. It appears when a part of the body is exposed for long time immobilization and in combination with moisture and a temperature around 0 degrees. In Swedish this symptom is also called skyttegravsfot. The other injurie can be characterized by of icing/frostbites. This injurie often appear in strong cold, often in combination with strong winds. Sometimes persons with locally cold injuries also got low body temperature. The injurie mechanism is that the water in the tissue freezes and build up crystals which is destroying the cells structure. In this type of injuries it is important to asses the deepness of the wound. If superficial injuries without icing or if it is injuries with blisters with clear fluid. Or if it is deep injuries with blood filled blisters, or if it is full tissue wounds. This with no blisters but wax like tissue, and in the next step mummified tissue, black necrosis.
So what will be your action in this situation? First you must remove the person from the environment of coldness and moister. Remove moistened clothes, protect from the wind. You should not warm up if there is a risk for refreezing. Passive warming from body part or partner etc. Do not massage injured tissue will get hurt easy. Hot and sweet drink. High arms and legs, don’t let the patient walk on freeze feet, due to the risk of tissue injuries. (You can use Ibuprofen 400mg twice a day for the pain and reduce the inflammatory reaction)
A normal reaction that always appear is the shudder. This is involuntarily contractions from the skeletons muscles. This because of produce heat to the body. The more cold the person become and feel the more he or she will shuddering. The body reaction will increase the metabolism. What this means is that the body need energy to being able to shuddering. At the same time we freeze we crimes more energy. That why it is so important to add energy to one that is freezing. Hot drink ant food will help a lot of course. You can achieve the same effect as shuddering with physical work, you will get warmer. Do push ups etc.
But first of all, knowledge is the solution for not having frostbites. With a clothing within the multilayer principal and understanding the winds affect on the human body and also the affect of the wind drift. So why don’t start the day by doing an analyze of what risk of frostbite will the conditions and activity have…that is what I call a good start for an adventure day.
Chamonix, just feel the word. What does it starts for feeling in you? If you haven’t been there probably nothing. But if you have been there excitement, expectations, grandeur and so on. Chamonix is a smock of adventures and activities. Just sitting in the middle of the Centre and sipping of a coffee, and soak up the atmosphere is a great feeling. With Mont Blanc’s ridge in the fund just relax and enjoy. What to avoid though will be the tourist traps. So I will have some hidden pearls here for you. They will take some more time and due to that some more planning. But it will be worth it. A good alpinism day should begin or end up with a nice cup of coffee, that for sure. So why not start with one at Moody coffee at a side street in the center of Chamonix.
So now you got the coffee inside and the body is starting up. What about a hike? So take a transport to Lignon car park. and goes first to the Cascades de la Pleureuse and Sauffraz. Then, the tour continues towards the Collet d’Anterne and the Refuge d’Anterne Alfred Wills before reaching Lac d’Anterne after a rather challenging ascent of the eponymous mountain. Then, the course ends at the Col d’Anterne after a final climb. The hike is classified in the “Hard” category because of the length of the route (17.4 km round trip) and some passages requiring significant effort.
In order to appreciate the beauty of the landscapes discovered in the nature reserve, I recommend camping at Lac d’Anterne and climbing the Col the next morning. On a clear day at sunrise, Rochers des Fiz adorn itself with a beautiful orange dress. If you wish to camp, remember that it is only allowed to pitch your tent between 7pm and 9am in the nature reserve.
Important note: remember to come early in the morning (before 7:30 am), because the Lignon car park is very quickly saturated and it becomes impossible to park.
Next suggestion will be a hike to Lac de Pormenaz. In the heart of Passy National Nature Reserve, the Lac de Pormenaz, overlooked by the imposing eponymous Pointe Noire and Rochers des Fiz, is a must-see summer outing.
The route quickly leads to the Torrent du Souay to finally rise more frankly once arrived at La Chorde where cables and ladders will help pass a few difficulties.
The Aravis Range and the Fiz Massif will appear as a permanent backdrop throughout the ascent. Swimming in the Lac de Pormenaz can be a refreshing break before the descent towards Argentières locality and the Chalets d’Ayères.
For people prone to fear of heights, it is possible to avoid the passages with cables by leaving on the right the trail of La Chorde at the junction.
So there you got three different places to visit in Cham. Facts you might did not know; Mont Blanc speed record is 4 hours, 57 minutes and 34 seconds. this is from the church to the peak and back…The Compagnie des Guides des Chamonix was established in 1821 so early guiding in Cham. Edward Whymper the first summiteer of Matterhorn died in Chamonix, and he is buried here
Today it will be a history that might will affect you, what knowledge do you got about first aid? The
history of a Guardian angel on the mountain. (Torgy Roxå was saved due to a guides with knowledge and sensory presence)
