The first ascend of Kebnekaise North Peak(Winter)

Today we got the 20th of December, and soon we got Christmas. The topicof the day will be mountain storys. First of all a story about ascending the North peak of Kebnekaise. Wednesday the 15th of April 1925 a small Company was travelling in Northt direction. The day after Three men was leaving the train in Kiruna. It was Three men with the face marked of wind and hard weather. At lunch time they left Kiruna by skiis for an attempt of ascending Kebnekaise North and South peak. After a night at Pirttivuopio, the tour continued towards Nikkulahti were they meet the legendary sami Nils Sarri,, as agreed should follow them to the montain station. One night at the staion and they started to prepair for the ascend. 25kg for each of the participants and almost 35kg for Sarri.

With snow up to the hip, the ascent was force tentatively. The supply was calculated to last for Three Days. The skiis was left at slope between Tuolpagorni and Rieppovare. The weather was good, and the wind was calm. At 18.30 the top cabin was reached. The cabin was hidden under the snow, so they had to diggit out. After 30 minutes the work was done and they took the cabin in possesion.

After a bastant dinner the Company started ascending the South top of Kebnekaise. At the same time as the sunset, and slowly the night was coming. The next day it was time for the ascedning of first the South peak keep on to the Ridge over to the North peak and back again. Thew weather was fine but much colder then the day Before..The distnce between the peaks is just 800m. Everything Went fine and the party reach the northern peak at 12 a Clock. Of a sudden the men is getting out of there Dreams, a paper from the camera protection goes up in the air of the wind. The weather is shifting. .The Ridge must be taken in a hurry. Late in the evening they are back in the top cabin. Late dinner, and then breaks the hell loose. A Winter storm at 2000m is notheing you play with. they will be stranded until Friday. And then they can descend back to the mountain station.

And Another first ascend. David Lama Lunag Ri

See ya tomorrow friends…

18th of December and the food.

I’ve been active in the outdoor since I could walk. Skiing, skating or hiking. I still remember the ski-tours the family did towards the wind shelter at Bonäs. Lighting up a bonfire and barbequing a sausage and the day was complete. During the 80s I spend time in the mountain environment tenting for multi day tours. During this time the dry food was the only choice you got. The result was a grey mourning, that didn’t taste so very nice. And it also made your stomach in a rebellion mode. It was the same in the service until the 90s when the new type of dried outdoor food did its entrée. After a couple of tours, I must say I did get tired and hated the food. But when we were going to ascend Aconcagua in 2010, we decided to take the safe choice, the dry food. Just for avoiding problem with the stomach. But after just two days, I went crazy out of the shit, and bought a hamburger with egg at the basecamp in Confluencia. One of the best burgers in my life, and after that it was easy to choose. Whatever, what I learned was that you must consider how and what to eat to get all the calories you need. A normal day in the outdoor requires about 2500-4000 calories, which means you must eat a lot. And for me to be able to do that it must taste good. So, I should be inventive to secure the intake. So, her will follow some suggestion, and experience form my point of view. The breakfast is important. Porridge is a good start. You put it into daily packaging. 2 dl of oats and ¼ the spoon of salt. I also always bring blueberry soup powder. Then you put in this into the porridge in the end of the boiling, and it will taste very good. If I got time I also boil coffee as well, and take a bread. Now you got yourself a good start of the day. If it is not so long tour I also bring canned food. Then I could have a good choice, otherwise it will be dry food with complements such as smoked ham or air dried reindeer meat etc. I always try to bring one or two meals of fresh food, especially on cabin tours. So here comes a recipe for a Taco dinner with reindeer filet. You need: 600g reindeer filet, a bunch of thyme, a bunch of rosemary, black pepper and salt. Olive oil, one fennel, 2 avocados, and one dl roasted hazelnuts.

1. Chop rosemary and thyme and rub the meat into the herbs with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, salt and pepper and set aside.
2. Grill the reindeer filet for a few minutes on each side and allow for a few minutes to rest.
3. Cook or grill avocado and lemon for a couple of minutes, flavor with salt and pepper.
4. Slice the meat, place an egg yolk in each avocado and pull a turn over the peppermill. Put it all together on a dish with vegetables, chopped nuts, grilled lemon, avocado and bread. Let the guests ”build” their own taco.

Creamy reindeer stew;

1 reindeer meat (Sv. Renskav), 240 g, 1 yellow onion, sliced, 25 g butter, 2 dl whipped cream, 1/2 tbsp. calf bottle

1/2 tablespoon blackberry jelly, 5 juniper berries, 2 tablespoons messmör (optional), salt and white pepper

Roast the onion and meat in butter so that the meat is slightly colored and the onion softens. Add cream, fond, jelly, juniper and mess butter (messmör. Soak for 10-15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Mandel potato Purée: 1 kg almond potatoes, 1 dl milk, 100 g butter, 1 pinch ground mashed potatoes, salt and white pepper.

Peel the potatoes and boil in lightly salted water. Pour and squeeze the potatoes. Boil milk and butter, mix it with the freshly squeezed potato into a puree. Taste with mushroom salt and pepper.

See ya tomorrow..

Interview with Johan Skullman.

Today I had an interview with Johan Skullman, known as the expert of outdoor clothing and gear. He has more than 35 year of professional experience of outdoor life. With a background, as former officer and equipment tester for the Swedish armed forces he knows his area better than the most.

What is your outdoor background?

I am born outside of Norrkoping close to the Kolmarden area. My family loved the outdoors and was very active in orienteering and skiing so I almost grew up in a backpack. So, my playground was the nature itself. Later fishing and hunting came in as a great part of my life. In the service, it became more of a multisport art, but still skiing and orienteering. I was lucky to get a very specialized education of leadership, outdoor experience and a deeper knowledge into product development, textile engineering, and functional design. I could never have got such a unique education and experience as a civilian, so I am very thankful for my years in the armed forces.

With your competence and skills, I would like to ask you about gloves. And especially connected to ice climbing. What type of gloves will you recommend?

Well, it depends on which type of climbing you are going for, and of course the type of weather conditions. Is it cold, is it wet? Or both? If it is just a day of climbing, you can bite together and just take the pain with deficient equipment. But if you are going for a longer climb, you need to have options. So, if you choose a pair of wool liners and an outer layer of rubberized gloves, you will keep dry and warm. The type of glove you choose, will be depending on your activity. With an alpine ice axe, you can probably use a mitten. But with a technical ice axe you will need a more tactile glove. I will suggest one from Hestra Mountaineering series even from there workwear (JOB) collection. This will keep you warm and dry, still with a good grip. For the multi-day trip, you need the opportunity to choose from several different models, so you can change during the adventure…

And when it comes to coffee, what type do you prefer in the outdoor?

If I can choose it will be boiled from the coffee kettle, but I also drink the instant if there is any else.

See ya tomorrov..

Today it will be about Sylarna. There is no mountain station i feel so much for as Sylarna. It is in a high alpine area, and close to the Norweigan border.  Winter or summer you Always got some new adventure to discover. During the Winter you can ski to Nedalshytta or just go to ascend the Vaktåklompen, with a fantastic view. Or in the summer hike into the tempel valley and enjoy the nature and the calm over the mountain. It is Always with a feeling of excitement and expectation I come here, and with a bit of sadness when I leave…I good suggestion is to go to Helags or to Gasen. This instead of doing the Jamtlandtriangle as usual. The Winter here is something special if you havent been here. The ”moon” landscape is very Beautiful. If you got the chans skiing in the moonlight is a very special experience.

And now this weeks quiz, last weeks answer was Sulitelma. This week it will be math.

The offical heigt of Mont Everest: XXXX

The Official heigt of Galdhöpiggen(reduce) -XXXX

The year  Sven Hedin ascend Mt Damavand:(reduce) -XXXX

The year the Swedish icebreaker Oden reached the Northpole (add)+XXXX

The first ascend of Cho Oyo(reduce) -XXXX

Sum:  XXXX

Answer you send to +46 702 50 90 28 at latest Thursday

See ya tomorrow…

Today it will be about a not so knowned military unit, the Sirius patrol from Denmark. The patrols mission, first of all is to ensure Denmark’s sovereignty at the northern part of Greenland.

The unit was grounded in 1941 for look for German debarkation. After the second worldwar it was let down, for being started up during the Cold war. Despite the demanding service, there are many applicants for the few service available. At the moment only med can aply for the mission, and you most of course be completely fresh.

The whole unit consits out of 12 men. One patrol contains two men. who with the dog sledge monitors the approximately 2100 kilometer long uninhabited coast during the winter months. In the summer the patrols are performed by the ice-free fjord, and there are also airplanes and helicopter surveillance. In addition to military surveillance and sovereignty enforcement, the patrol has the civilian police authority in the area.

The service remains over two year, And leave will be approved first when you are back in Denmark. During eight month of the year the patrul is ”on duty” 24 hours of the day. The patrol moves on the night and sleep on the day. An ordenary day march is about 350-450Km., depending on the weather of course. The patrol is self-sufficient and can not expect any support from outside. They build they own sledge for being able to rapair it if/when needed. You have to put the trust to yourmate, the dogs and the sledge..The arming is a Glock20 and a mauser gun, this becase it works in the Arctic Cold.

Today I was climbing at the climbing gym, and a coffee as ”after climb”  And the christmas gigt suggestion of the day will be a book..

Tomorrow it will be a new quiz. See ya..

Today it will be about the samis, the native of sweden. Today about 20-30 000 samis live in Sweden. Out of this it is just 2000 working full time with reindeers. Before Sweden become christian, the Samis got there own religion. They felt that the sun, the moon and the thunder and the wind was devine. Everything in the nature was having a soul, so you have to be kind to the nature. They also was having a shaman the nojd who was a doctor and a seer.

The shaman got a drum, that was important in the sami Culture. On the drum the reindeer pasture was a given Picture..

During the 1600 the Samis was forced to become cristians, and there Culture was banned.

As late as 1993 the Sami parliament was groundet from the Swedish goverment. from here the Samsi could make proposals to Sweden’s Parliament. he Sami Parliament decides on its own culture, language and its schools. The common people decide on their own sami nation by voting every four years. The Sami Parliament is dependent on the state because it has no own tax base.

The Sami situation in Sweden has improved in recent years. In the past, the Sami were oppressed by the Swedes, but it has improved in recent years. Among other things, the Swedish state apologized in 1998 for the oppression Sweden exercised against the Sami in the past. It still will be conflicts between the local Swedish people and Samis due to diffrent interests and view ofthe ownership of land and the rights. Ithink we should be proud over the Samis in our land,and support them as much as we can. As usual read about them and you will understand more..

See ya tommorrow, and the Winner of the quiz this week was Anders E congrat!

Today I´ve made an interview with Karin Isaksson Zgraggen. She is working as Marketing Manager at Primus AB. She is also going through an education as a Mountain guide…

Interview with Karin Isaksson.

What is your outdoor background?
As you certainly hear from my accent, I come from Switzerland, more specifically from Uri, Andermatt. I grew up on a farm that my family ran. We were very active with skiing and hiking. My mom competed in skiing when she was young, so my upbringing was characterized by outdoor life. With three active siblings, it became a lot of workouts with both running and athletics training. During university studies, there was a lot of endurance athletics, including a marathon run. There was also a lot of mountain acrivities during that time. And at this period I also started climbing. I can say that I got stuck immediately for the climbing and my husband who is an enthusiastic climber and who loves the Mountains very much, drew me into that world. It became a lot of alpine and winter climb with friends aswell. We moved to Canada because there were good climbing conditions and nice people and culture. But then Olov was able to get a job at Stockholm University and then we moved over to Sweden. I have previously worked with events, but the job I took was not exactly what I thought it would be. In the event area in which I worked, it is important to have like-minded people around you. When the job at Primus appeared, I searched for it immediately, and I’m really enjoying it. Primus is a small but technical company with short decision-making processes. It is easy to influence and make changes when needed.

 What happens next in your life?
In the afternoon I will go three weeks to the Alps. I have begun training towards becoming an international mountain guide within the Swedish Mountain guide Organization. The plan is to be done within 3-5 years. After that I plan to work 80% and as a Mountain guide the remaining part.

Can you see if there is any difference if you are a woman or a man working as a mountain guide?
First and foremost, I have great respect for the training, it is in itself demanding. I think that in rescue operations, maybe as a women you must be able to have good alternative solutions, given that there may be size and weight difference between me and my clients. It may be something that has to be taken into account when selecting clients and activities. Then women need to train 20% more than men according to research to achieve the same results. That is also something to bare in mind.

Photo Olov Isaksson

Can you see any trends in mountain sports?
-The whole area is trendy right now. What is obvious from my perspective from Primus is that men are significantly more technically interested. I find that there is a great interest in women to come out in the outdoor environment aswell, but that they are more careful. Those who are most noticeable and you hear most  are the men who are competing and hunting low weight equipment. But I think women are the group that will grow the most.

Are there any area that you can recommend and which is special to you?
-If you have not been to Scotland, it’s a must. Over there it is not the performance requirement hat is important but just the joy of being outside. As you say, ”small mountains, big adventures”. Here everyone walks out, despite bad weather or, it’s always bad weather so it’s just going out.

Coffee on the trip, what will be your personally choice?
Ha ha if it’s a lightweight trip, I’ll skip the coffee. But if it’s a winter climb, then the bialetti goes with it, and it gets freshly brewed with some good Italian coffee. Last we were on a tour it became a competition about who could pack the lightest

When it comes to winter tenting, do you have any tips to make it more comfortable?

Ha ha to begin with, everything is easier as a guy, ha ha. Then I usually use a Camel back which I fill up with warm water before I get into the sleeping bag for a good nights sleep.

See ya tomorrow..

When it comes to Winter tenting many people will be doubtful. The thing is that it require some more Equipment. But at the same time there is also some advantges. It will give you more freedom to choose routes and you will not be dependent to cabins or mountain stations. But for such a trip you probably will need a sledge.

You will need a four season tent. Preferably with extra edges for being able to lay snow on for securing and for isolation with snow. The moist will lso be a challenge. So the tent must have a good ventialtion. Before you go in, brush of all snow on your clothes. If you have space bring a small brush for the purpose. A tunnel tent will give you space but cost in weight. A cupoltent is smaller, lighter and will be warmer(but more tight)

You shall also bring a gas light. This is very good for being able to work in the tent, bu also for drying away the moist. It can be more practicl wit a ga stowe, that you  can use the gas to the light as well.

When you are going to choose Place for the tant you can use your ski for getting a flat Surface. My experience is that you often do this to small. You also need to use a snow stick, for secure the tent from the wind. Use your skiis and your sticks as well for this purpose.

For the Comfort choose a good sleeping bag, and dont forget a real good sleeping matt.  And then you are ready for the night.

And now to the basic service. Before you go to bed, boil waer. Fill up the thermos and also a water bottle with hot water. If you are going for a longer trip, plan the hygiene. This for not getting infections etc. A good thin to bring is hygiene napkins.If you need to dry clotes such as stockings and small things, you can put them into the sleeping bag(not big or very wet garments) Shake the sleeping bag, do some exercise such as a couple of push-ups. Now you are ready for sleeping. Put the bottle with hot water between your legs. It will get you warm and comfortabe. Before you get up in the morning, dry the moist in the tent with the gas lamp…And now you will be ready for a new day of adventure..

See ya tomorrow..(a interview…)

Outdoor activities sometimes demand some support. In Sweden we got a lot of organisations who will support us and help us to get out into the wilderness. Check all the links down below, you will get inspired.. I would like to start with the Swedish Tourist Association (STF) Who offer training, acommodation at cabins and mountain stations. It was grounded in 1885. Today there are more than 235 000 members, and offer over 300 different types of acommendations..

https://www.svenskaturistforeningen.se/

Another very good organisation is Friluftsframjandet. A organisation with activities and training for mountain leaders etc. Friluftfrämjandet was grounded in 1892. The open air promotion has helped Swedes discover the mountains since 1892. Today, our business covers much more than that, but that’s where everything started. With a thought and belief that human beings feel good at staying in nature. Today thera are 95 000 members

https://www.friluftsframjandet.se/lat-aventyret-borja/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjMiB2oib3wIVDM-yCh3gJQ-YEAAYASAAEgLKlvD_BwE

The Swedish mountain association is antother very good organisation. It was grounded in 1927, with primary task to promote healthy mountain sports on the conditions of nature. We actively work with issues surrounding our mountain environment and we provide our members with enhanced mountain know-how through our extensive education activities, as well as providing mountain experiences through hiking and skiing trips in our mountainous world.

https://www.fjallklubben.se/

We also got the SFLO, the Swedish Mountain Leaders Organization, which is organisation for mountain leaders and trainers. There goal is to increase the quality and competence of mountain leaders and to ensure a higher status for trained mountain leaders so that they are chosen first by non-profit and commercial parties in the mountains.

https://svenskafjalledare.se/

See ya tomorrow…

11th of December and ski alpinism.

One of the trends that increasing in outdoor area is the ski alpinism. Producers as La Sportvia, Dynafit among others, have specialized themselves for this type of activities. The combination of climbing and skiing is challenging and you will get the feeling of “freedom of the hills”. In Sweden, you will have good condition for it.

With the night train from Stockholm you can be in Jamtland in the morning. There are lot of interesting areas for the ski alpinism. If we start at storulvan, you will have a fast access to Getryggen and Storsnasen. But for those who wants to try the hills away from the road, I have some good suggestions.

First, Storsola at Sylarna, you will reach the summit within 2-3 hours. This is an alpine area so if you are a beginner you might choose another place. The summit is close to the Sylarna summit.
If you want to be alone another suggestion might be the Tjaervientjahke close to the Lunndorren cabins. The approach from the cabin to the summit(1290m) will be approx. 2 hours. From Valadalen here is 14km to reach the cabins.

Tjaervientjahke 12990m

Nice skiing in Chamonix..Enjoy..

See ya tomorrow..