10th of December, and today i just want to reflect on the interviews I have done during the autumn. With fourteen diffrent persons it has been enriching and very interesting. One of the challenge with it is that listen to all the persons experience, makes me wondering what my self got for experience? All of them has been very humble, and willing to tell their storys. Looking back, There is no favorite, everyone got theor own personality. They all are so nice people. I will keep the meetings in my mind.. And just so you know, the interviews will continue..
Today it i the 9th of December and foutteen Days left for christmas. Todays topics is mental training. I’ve been practicing it since early 80s. Today I am practicing meditation for at least five times a week. Mental training can be devided in to many different areas. Today I will write about mental strength and mental distractions.
First of all it is important that the mental training is comprehensive. It should be included and cover allt the different part of your type of activity. Second it need to be structured, youshall have a plan for the mental training at the same was as fort muscle strength or tecnique workout. The third thing is that i need to be consistant, it takes time and time to get a strong mind. And as you change the set up for physical raining depending on season, it will be the same for the mental strengtening. You need to change it periodically. And the last thing is to have a personlized program.
First of all it is all about approach. With a positive mind, everything will become easier. So strat there, Think positive. Try to Always have a positive approach, and it will help you to perform better. So you might start there.
Friday i got a real challenging workout. I did know, that if I dont was in fully focus, it would have been very easy to quite while the lactic acid have done its entry. So I really decide Before the workout to keep the focus, and focus on the feeling afterwords. The feeling of success and satisfaction. For me it helped and I succeed.
We all got different type of shortcomings, this will be the way to strengthen you up, to become a better you..
And for the quiz this week, you can cath the clues at almost every Days blog. The answer I need latest at Wednesday..
And todays christmas gift suggestion: A grip ball from HE fitness..for strengthen you climbing fingers
Today it is the 8th of December and today the blog will be about books. There is nothing like a good book and a nice cup of coffee and a crackling fire in front of you.
When it comes to technical books i suggest:
Psyko vertical, author Andy Kirkpatric
The Mountaineering, training and preparation book is also a must for the mountaineers libary.
Also the art of Ice climbing can be a suggest for the ice climber and mountaineerer ethusiast..
When it comes to Swedish mountain books i will suggest:
Manker, De åtta årstidernas folk. Samt gränslösa fjäll from Anders Eijdsvik. And of course Blåhammarens dramatiska händelser from Rolf Eriksson
And the clue for this weeks quiz, the title of the move Thelma and Louise will help you. And the area got the same name as the village..
Today we will talk about wilderness medicine. As you go out for an activity you must be prepared for injuries of different kind. Cut of different arts, spraining or even more traumatic issues such as fractures etc. For that it will be two(three) main areas. You must have the equipment; you must be skilled (and if possible be experienced in the area).
When it comes to equipment, you should decide what to bring in the pack. If it is just a small group with a simple activity, you might just need a first aid bandage. A bigger group with a more demanding activity in mountain environment might demand a bigger first aid kit. As leader, you should consider to bring antihistamine for example, for mitigate anaphylactic shock. When it comes to more adventure activities or expedition adventures, you need to build up a first aid kit depending of the needs. And in that type of activity you need to analyze what kind of support you can count of for evacuation. Such as helicopter, snowmobiles or quads etc.
The second area is about skill. You can attend to a first aid course; this needs to be done periodically. This should also include HLR. If you are a team that are out together, you might train recovery position (Sv. Framstupa sidoläge) and to do tourniquet (Sv. Tryckförband). The more skilled and prepared you are, the better you will be to handle an acute situation. So, you better be prepared, it will happen…
Today I got an interview with a person working 100% with outdoor, and to get people to challenge themselves. Tero Libell one of the owner of Via Ferrata at Skuleberget, and an adventurer of rang.
Hi Tero, what is your outdoor background?
I’ve been running around in the nature since I was a kid. Built huts and so on. I also remembered climbed big mountains during the childhood, but today I can’t find them in the village where I grew up:-). I am the one that doesn’t go for sun-trips. I rather travel in mountains or more exciting destinations. In 2007 I took over the Vi Ferrata at Skuleberget, and from 2008 Latte has been my business partner.
So, what is the history of the Via Ferrata at Skuleberget?
It was the two brothers Arne and Gunnar Nordin, which has been down in the Dolomites and got inspired from there. So, in 1987 the White route was build. In 1990 the red one was in place. Arne has got a thought about a route on the north side, and in 2008 the black route was done. Arne still got a route running around in his head and in 2012 the yellow was born.
And the future, what will happen?
Ha ha, well the mountain is full of wires, so…But who knows, Arne might have got another route running in his headJ .
You are now off the season, so what will you do?
I’ve been to High Atlas for a couple of week, and normally I go for a longer journey in February, but since I become grandfather I think I can spend some time with my grandchild.
And the most important question, what coffee do you prefer in the outdoors?
The best is cook coffee, in an old well used coffee kettle. But to be honest, often it will be instant coffee. That’s the easiest way of getting coffee which is a must:-)
Today it is the 6th of December, and the Christmas is coming up closer. Today I will write about Via Ferrata. Nothing is as good as a day of Via Ferrata. What I like with the Via Ferrata is, that it in no rules (except the safety rules of course). It is the climber’s choice, how to do it. And it is a link between hiking and climbing. The perfect entry for climbing. As a reward, you will have a fantastic view. Another advantage is that you can do it yourself, but of course you normally will get a more holistic experience with friends.
The severity differs, and there is different scale for the difficulties. The French, The Austrian, the two different Germans and the Italian. The Italian scale has been adopted by UUIA in 2016 as an international standard. from F, PD, D, TD, ED. So, you just should choose which one that suits and challenge you.
In Sweden, we got Skuleberget, Kebnekaise, Funasdalen and the Kullen area. In the Dolomites, you get a lot of different ones you can choose from. Also in southern Germany, Switzerland and in the French alps as well. Here follow some short advices; Get out early, this will help you to avoid the crowd. And as a bonus you often got good weather. Were gloves and a small backpack. This will help you to avoid blisters, in the back pack you can bring some beverage and a jacket for bad weather. Clip in as far forward as you can. This will help you to be safe, and remember just one at each section at the time. You must commit. It not easy to turn, you need to fulfil the action. So, once you are clipped in, you must continue. Be aware of the elements. At a Via Ferrata you will be exposed. So be aware of slippery parts, and unlock from the wire in thunderstorms.
Todays christmas gift suggestion:
And the Winner of the quiz this week: Mikael, and the price is the book Min historia av Petter Northug.
The weather is one of the most interesting topics for the outdoors’s. But, if there is something you can’t influence it will be the weather. In the mountains, the weather is fickle. In an area, you are well known of, you can see the signs about changes. But in new areas you need to have skills and maybe some technical support. An altimeter/barometer is a very good tool for this. Here you can follow the pressure and can predict an upcoming weather change. In the alpine environment, it is difficult even for a meteorologist to predict weather here. Beside the meteorological skills, you must know the height of the mountains, broad or narrow valleys and in what direction they follow. How does wind move, and what direction they take depending of from where they come?
By watching the clouds, you will get a chance to predict weather changes.
Altocumulus floccus (Sv. tofsformade böljemoln)
This is a sign for an instable atmosphere, in about an hour you will have bad weather.
Altostratus (Sv. skiktmoln)
When a low pressure and a precipitation area is approaching, this cloud will be a sign…in about one or a couple of hours the bad weather will hit you.
The daylight is also a fact you must consider. When you planning the mountain trip, be sure about have many hours you can spend in light. You shall always bring a head lamp in case of darkness.
In the northern part of Sweden now we got the “polar night” that means that we from the 30th of November to January will not have any daylight at all.
Plan, and have good preparation done for bad weather. Always plan for a retreat out of the area, or what to do if the bad weather hits you. In the mountains, a good suggestion can be to bring a couple of bamboo stakes with a small pennant on. In bad weather with decreased sight, this can be very helpful and a safety.
Mattias Jansson at aconcagua using bambu sticks in case of bad weather condition.
I got a short interview with Sverker Hellstrom at SMHI about mountain weather.
How does the mountain environment affect the weather?
Well, it differ from place to place. That is why it’s hard to predict. The wind direction for example, especially if it is a tapered valley. The height affect the rain/snow/fall. There will be more rain/snow at the merchant side. The contour of the mountains is also a factor to count with (related to the wind direction)
Due to the global warming, can you see that the extreme type of weather increase in the mountain environment?
No, nothing that we can see as a pattern right now.
What is your suggestion to prevent from being captured in bad weather condition?
First of all, listen to the weather report on the radio. Be aware of the warnings. Doing this will give you a good overview, from where you can make decision for the activity of the day.
When it comes to x-flash, what is your recommendation there?
First it is less common with thunderstorms within mountain environment. But if you being caught of one, avoid high points.
Ok, and then one of the most important questions; what type coffee do you prefer at your outdoor activities?
Ha ha, for me it is brewed coffee it will be. So I rather choosing short activities so I can get home and brew…
todays chrismas gift suggestion, the Fjallraven Canada shirt. A must for the outdoor enthusiast..
Todays clue of the weeks question: The name of the area has something to do with the sun..
Door four and you about equipment will learn more.
Equipment this dear topic. We all know a lot and got our own view of this, so from that point of view see this as just an advice… The base where you should do the big invest will be the; base layer, boots and shell layer.
The Base layer. Most important is to not become wet. So, you must ventilate and open and take of mid-layer etc. If not, it doesn’t matter what base layer you wearing. You will be wet, and you will freeze. A good advice is to stop after the first 20 minutes of an activity, to suit the clothing. And now we can talk about the material. If you are going to have intensive physical activity, you might can use synthetic. But I always prefer wool. The advantage with wool is that it always warming, even when its wet. And you will not become a hero when you are boiling water in a cabin and not smelling sweat.
When it comes to boots, you just must analyze what activity you are going to perform. Stiff sole or a flexible one. Are you going to use crampons, you will need stiff sole. I always prefer a stiff sole, I will get a better support for my feet’s, but others like the flexible ones. I will not dig into mountaineering boots because that can be a story by its self… The Gore-Tex boots got a lining, that protect you from blisters. But as all Gore-Tex you need to clean it for fully function of transport moist.
Shell layer. I will never leave for the mountains without a Gore-Tex jacket. What is important for me is that the pockets are deep, so things not fall out when opening it. The pocket should be placed high so you can wear harness under (for us mountaineers which climbs) It shall have a hood, big enough so you can wear helmet under. I also like to have zipper for ventilation under the arms/back. As mention before, take good care of your Gore-Tex equipment, wash it and waterproof it after. Jacket you can choose after own taste and feeling. I like small details such as pocket at the arm for compass keeping for example.
Here comes same new climbing stuff for us climbing nerds. Most of this gear is not available at the market yet…
New backpacks from Climbing Technology, Alpha from Arcetryx and news from Mammut during 2019.
A light ice axe for the mountaineerer from Blue ice will be available in the beginning of next year.
New belay devices. You can buy the soon..
AustriAlpin, Beal and Edelrid got new equipment coming up..
Choucas harness from Blue Ice and Akatta from Rock Empire is new for 2019.
New shoes during 2019: Butora Sensa Pro and Black Diamond Z
And the clue for the quiz today: There is a village in the area with approx. 425 inhabitants.(In Norway).
Today we open door three, and more about forgotten trails you will see..
Forgotten trails.
This is a subject I always will come back to. We always do the same journeys; I think it is for that simplify the planning. I think it also must do with that that we think it will be as nice as last time…But to improve our skills with need to challenge ourselves. And to be honest, it’s more fun with new places and new discoveries.
So here comes one good suggestion in the Kebnekaise area. Go direct towards Tarfala, continue to the Black Lake (Svarta sjön) and downhills towards Guobirvaggi, and you then come out between Sälka and Singi and Kungsleden. Continue towards Singi and Kebnekaise mountain station. This route give you the opportunity of to attempt of ascend the Kebnekaise, and the peak of Sälka (with a royal view) You can also an attempt of the Kaskasatjåkka peak as well.
When it comes to Jamtland I will suggest the trail between Helags Mountain station and Sylarnas mountain station. Here you can choose to go by Ekorrdorren or direct to Sylarna. My suggestion here will be to go by Ekorrpasset, and a peak tour to Sylskalsstoten. You can even reach it from the Sylarna mountain station. And don’t forget Herrklumpen. The staff hill of the mountain station. Perfect for skiing in the winter (do you remember Mattias, when we were snowed in at the mountain station for four daysJ) And you also will get a fantastic view over the Sylarna area as reward for the ascending…
Also the trail from Anaris towards Valastugorna is a forgotten and very nice trail to follow…You will probably be alone on this trail.
It has become more popular to spend the winter season of skiing in Sweden. When the interest increase, the price will go same way. With a weak Swedish crown, and with climate anxiety we choose to take the car to the Swedish mountains. But if you plan the journey, you will get a better price says Emma Persson private economist. Accommodation and lift card are the two most affected areas, this will increase with about 10%. Skistar which is the biggest actor, got a differenced model. Booking in time, and the right weeks will give you a better price…
For this week’s quiz, there will be a clue every day. And we seek a mountain area.
First clue of this: This is an area between Sweden and Norway. Two thirds of the area are in Norway.
This days suggestion of chrismas gift will be a perfect thing for control of the risk for avalaches in the slopes..
Check the temperature and the angle of the slopes. You put it on the ski stick..
So today we open the second door, and see what a alp Town for adventure us store..
Chamonix got approx 9 000 inhabitants. Chamonix is the fourth municipality of France. There are more visitors at summer(100 000/day) then during the Winter(60 000/day). The first Winter Olympic games where held here in 1924.
Whatever, both Les Houches and Argentieré is both very good for all sort of adventures. Hotels are quite cheap during summer. Chossing a Three star hotel it will not be so fancy, but cheap. The access to all transportation is easy. Buss, tramway or Cable cars. Everything is Close to the city..The Aguille du Midi is a must, but all visitors wants to try this..
Waking up, and the first sight in the morning is Mont Blanc, a good start of the adventure day..
And the restaurants, many and with nice meny. My suggest will be a visit of Monkey, a burger Place with lot of English people or Poco Loco Another nice burger Place. La Biouvaqe is Another favourite with local dishes.
A nice hike I suggest will be the Lac Blanc. You can then also go by the nice Les Cheserys lakes, a real nice area.
Photo Ulf Bergman.
You can get both easy adventures and tough challenges at Cham. And best of all it is easy to get there..
Photo Ulf Bergman
And since it is the first of advent, we will have a quiz. So here it comes. Click on it to get it bigger if needed. For every answer I get, I will climate compensate with 5 Swedish Crowns:-)
Send your answer to +4670-250 90 28(latest at Wednesday). There will be a prize…
Okey, its the 1st. December and it is time for this years calendar. This year will be the 6th in a row. And what is better than open the first door with an interview.
Said Belhaj one of the best, or the best climber in Sweden..
Push-your limit’s to failure…
Today’s interview will be with Said Belhaj. Said is the only professional climber in Sweden today. He is the only Swede that has climbed difficult 9A! He was born in 1981 and grew up in Gothenburg in Sweden. His first climbing attempt was at Rallarberget, equipped with a harness build out of a seat belt.
Hi Said what is your outdoor background?
Well, the difference between me and others was that I never stopped climbing, as young to grown up. I can’t say that is was a specific day when I decided to become a climber. But during the 80s I climbed at Rallarberget close to my home and, well that’s the way. If you look at the people living in the alps, for them it naturally to climb. For me it was the same with Rallarberget.
Can you see any trends in the climbing of today?
What I recognize is that it has become more competitions and more focus of the performance. Before it was more of an adventure focus, now it is more focus on sporty climbing. For me the advantage with climbing is more multifold. And from my point of view it will be boring if not all different branches were included in the climbing.
I know that you are a challenging individual, and has challenge the establishment.
How do you look at the establishment today, is there any difference?
Well, the establishment is spending most of the time on everything else then climbing. Ridicules discussion about fixed bolts to be or not to be in sport climbing etc. In the 80s this was completed in Europe, and we still struggling with this type of questions here. It is like country side, and not very inspiring. Being a pioneer in a culture like that is hard. From my point of view climbing is for everyone, from the amateur to the elite…
So, what are you up to today, are you focused for reaching 9B?
Now, I am going to Finland, but I will go to china in a couple of weeks for climbing there. Nothing specific. I will plan the 2019 later, now there is no specific goal. It will be bouldering of course; it must grow. And for being able to remove borders you must got the flow…
Looking at your friends Sean Villanueva for example, what is the difference between them among other alpinists?
Well, first this type of climbers is very good skilled in climbing. They got a very high level of physical performance. The second is that they love to suffer in the mountains. That is a driver for them. So, with this parts they can be able to climb difficulties in a good way. But the biggest difference is the skills of climbing…
When it comes to speed climbing, Ueli Steck was casualty, what is your reflection of that?
Well, that was very unexpected from my side. The tragedy happened when he was reconnaissance the upcoming climbing area, and probably lost his focus. Climbers in this area are well known with the risks. But of just losing focus for hundredth of second, will cost…
For becoming a better climber what is required?
There is one crucial thing, use your potential your capacity. Keep on until failure, you must get ahead far away from the comfort zone. You must move borders all the time. You can fail hundreds of times, but then of a sudden you fix it. When it feels impossible, keep on going until you make it. That is the magical moment of climbing, that is climbing.
Where is the best climbing in Sweden?
I’m sorry but here it must be local patriotism, The Swedish west
coast, Bohuslan. Where the sea meets the cliffs, and granite in world class…
So now the 1st door this year is opened, and tomorrow there will be a quiz. And you can win a nice price..
And todays Chrismas gift suggestion will be a book..
And dont forget to be one of yourself..
