Sven Hedin, one of the most famous explorer in Sweden. Hedin was born in 1865. This year it is 150 years since he was born(19th of February ) When Selma Lagerlof wrote a school book about the geography of Sweden. (Nils Holgerssons underbara resa) Hedin got a assignment to write a book of the rest of the world(from Pole to Pole). At the Ethnographic museum in Stockholm you can see photographs from Hedin, and as well from Lars Larsson. Fantastic opportunity to compare new photographs with the one from Hedin. Mr Hedin also climbed the Mt Damavand, which also I have climbed:-)

S6000389

A movie from Mt Damavand with my mate Mattias Jansson.

Importance of the rest, while training.

This week is a rest week, well that means that I will have two rest days instead of one. It will be on the rest you build up your body. When you train hard you need at least eight hours sleep. During the sleep, growth hormone will be released, as well as testosterone. This will develop your performance and strength. And If you train different muscle groups each workout, then you can train even harder than if you don’t,

See ya at Sunday;-)

This week the training has been good. A week ago I tested yoga for 1,5 hours and totally 10 workouts. This week it will be 9 workouts. This including two HIIT (high intensive interval training) workouts. Yesterday I went up early, an lugging the wheel as usual:-).

It has started to become spring, but when I woke up this morning the snow was back..

Acclimatization in one interesting topic. At the Mid University they have been study this for a time. Focus in there study is the spleen(sv. Mjälten) The spleen is a dynamic reservoir of blood with a high concentration of red blood cells. This reservoir can be used when its needed. The scientist was doing a pilot study at Louboche Peak (Nepal) when the test persons hold their breath, they could recognize a increasing of the HB level in the blood. But they also could see that, as the result decreased at higher altitude. Another study was they followed 11 trekkers of their tour at Rolwaling (Nepal). The trekkers went up to 4200m, the volume of the spleen was measured at 1370m, 3700m and 4200m. In rest at all of the altitudes the volume of the spleen has decreased with a higher level of HB was measured. The test persons also tested with a ”step test” at the same altitudes. There is knowledge that also physical training  will decrease the volume of the spleen. What the scientist could see was that even if the spleen already has decrease its volume, it still decrease with physical activity. The knowledge of that, told the scientist that  the spleen has a very central function of the adaption to high altitude, before a real acclimatization is done. So the conclusion of the research so far, will therefor be; The spleen looks to have a important function, in the acute situation when you end up in a fatigue oxygen environment. The function of the spleen will be to compensate the lack of oxygen with a higher level of HB. Of a longer time (3 weeks) you can se a result of that the spleen will increase its volume. But after 2 month there is no difference since before. The research is still on going, and I will report more as soon as I got the information..And thank you Angelica Lodin Sundström for the information.

Ulf Bergman with AMS (acute mountain sickness) at Mt Damavand Iran. (just vomiting three times:-). (photo Mattias Jansson)  

I am also planning for upcoming tours. It might be a tour to Härjedalen, but nothing is set,yet.

And here a inspiring film of Scotland and cycling:

And this week inspiring music video look and listening:-)

And now I am going out for a workout, see ya soon. Wednesday…

 

Sorry for a week without update, I ran out of time..

The training has followed the plan. Last Thursday-Sunday I was in Åre freeheel skiing the whole weekend. Early Friday morning, we went up and meet up with the ski-guide at 0800. As the only four in the ski area it was amazing. The weather during the weekend was a bit stormy, but otherwise the condition was perfect. This week it will be 9 workouts, within 9 hours..

Free heel skiing in Åre area.

Standing in the cable cabin this days, is much more cosily then for just a couple of years ago (the photo is the cable car for Åre skutan in old times)

Yesterday I read a interesting chronicle in Svenska Dagbladet from Jenny Damberg. She wrote about ultra-running and all extreme variants of training. I think she got a point. Today everyone need to be more unique, to standing out from the crowd.  we have those who train everyday, and then we got those who doesn’t train at all. And it is a bit of the same feeling about mountains. the extreme ones will always be there, but it is the others that need to stop the clock and feel the humility to the nature…Every new one, for the mountains is a victory:-).

Is it all about weight? Most of the magazine do test of mountaineering equipment. The thing is on lately they always write abut lightweight stuff.  It is of course good most of the time, but dont forget that the quality. I tested the La Sportiva Storm Fighter GTX pant in Åre. It is a light shell trouser for  ski-mountaineering. Quite light, but not I will use in high altitude environment..

A light pant, but be causes were the use of it..

Here come this weeks training music, the Swedish band Hives with Blood red moon..enjoy:-)

This year will be the year of testing different type of training. So today I will try a new thing. I will tell you next Sunday what is all abut. But challenge yourself with new types of training and you will develop your mind as well as your body:-).

Time for a thoughtfulness in Åre..

My spirit is longing for mountains, but I will be there soon. I know:-)

 

Sunday evening, and here I sit and do my bloging:-) To be honest, I  have longed for it. A cup of coffee and here we go. This week has been a good, but challenging training week. With totally 9 hours and 33 minutes I am satisfied. Running, cross-country skiing, EFIT, lugging the car Wheel, and also workouts in the gym. 9 workouts in 6 Days, that nice.

The snow was tough, and builded up a wall in the front of the Wheel, even more training;-)

There have been some avalange accidents during the weekend. One here in Sweden, with a happy ending as it seems out right now. And one in Switzerland and that one does not look so good:-(. Before all this happend there was a disussion ongoing about guides and there education about avalange security and knowledge. The mountain safety organ here in Sweden (Fjällsäkerhetsrådet) has decided to do some requirement set for the education.

http://www.svtplay.se/klipp/2623408/offpistguider-behover-inga-lavinkunskaper

Sorry for the Swedish, but it is all abut the requirement for guides working in off-pist areas.

And now over to ice-climbing, the latest here is that the Niagara falls has been climbed, look to this movie and enjoy…

The upcoming week contains some free heel skiing, and I look forward to it. I will test a new back-pack. A ski pack from Salewa, build for randonee skiing. Lots of good details from a first view. But now it will be hard core tested…details will be brought up next blog..

Other new products to keep an eye on will be the new ”Black Light collection”. (from Peak Performance)This one will be interesting, a new mountaineering series of clothes…let me guess, that this one will be mentioned at the outdoor cloth fair in Germany.

The new collection from Peak Performance…

Keep up the training, and here some good quotes to rely on…

On the mountains of truth you can never climb in vain: either you will reach a point higher up today, or you will be training your powers so that you will be able to climb higher tomorrow

(Nietzsche)

“Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion.”

(Anatoli Boukreev)

Cuz you’re one sexy mother fucker when you train, and you know it (why training…)

Only he who can see the invisible can do the impossible.
(- Frank L. Gaines..)

See ya next week..

Today the blog will be about this weeks training and about to think different.

No good ski track today…

This week has been a good training week. Good because of all different training. Workout at the gym, running, hiking & lugging a the carwheel, and the stairmaster and EFIT. Totally 8 hours and 56 minutes., great:-). The trends in training this year will be; Yoga, triathlon-training, and longdistance(running biking etc.). From my Point of view there is one interesting thing. I think its good to comibine different type of training, to a duathlon for example. Skiing and workout at the gym. Or Swimming and running etc. That will be my focus this year together with balance training.

Start thinking different…

I think it is important to challange myself. Because if I do the some thing, at the some time all time, you will be stucked in your mind. This will impact your way of see things. You will not see it in new angels.

YOU, only you can decide your thoughts, so be careful of them(the thoughts)…

So start challenge yourself, try another way to the job tomorrow.  Try a new dish for the dinner…That is the way to start thinking different. And you, don’t wait your whole life for the perfect moment, take this moment and do it perfect….and you, the secret of life is not what is happening to you, it is what you doing with that what is happening to you..Tomorrow is the day for us to start thinking a bit different, or…;-)

Find your self some new challenges for the upcoming future, something that will develop you..I have some new challenges, I can promise that…

This weeks training suggestion, (in Swedish, but instruction is easy to follow)

And a good training hit..

And some chill music as well..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCReBBexdDo

And at last, some new gear. TSL has come out with a new snow-shoe that adepts to the ground. A bit of different thinking as well:-) or..

See ya soon, I hope:-)

 

Mid January and the  importance of training…

(Start the youtube clip in the end while reading the blog:-) and enjoy..)

The training follows the plan. 9 workouts this week, a good variation. The ice makes it hard to run, so I have to use the fantasy to find new solutions. Yesterday I woke up 05.20, put some coffee in to the blood and out lugging the car wheel for 2 hours. One hour Efit and a run for 7 km. Today I have done the Stairmaster machine with 25 kilo in the back-pack, a great weekend:-) And here comes some more comments about training:

Mountaineering and fitness…

When it comes to physical training it can be divided into three main areas: A. Energizing processes, B. strength and techniques and mental training.

First it is fundamental to train cardiovascular training. Aerobic capacity training. The heart and lung capacity. Every workout must be at least 30 minutes, and the level shall be between 65-85% of max heartrate. (220-your age= your max heartrate). The thing is, that mountaineering gives us an opportunity of a series of different types of workouts; hiking up-hills with back-pack, hiking up-hills with snow shoes, run in stairs, mountain bike uphill and downhill, rock climbing, skiing, skating, swimming, and running. It is you that set the limitations. The more different methods the better and less risk of injuries. You can also do group training such as EFIT for example.

 

Endurance is very important. A mountaineering-day starts around 01.00 and end at 19.00. ~17 hours..So you have to increase the endurance in the training. You can do that by increase the weight in the back-pack you train with. Longer distance, faster speed, increase number of repetitions for example. When it comes to aerobic process the interval training will be a main factor. Running you can use 70/20 seconds or 90/30 or even longer 4-5 minutes. Cycling you can go between 15-30 minutes and speed hikes up to one hour.

Strength and techniques, here is it the base exercise that counts. Core is the push-ups, pull-ups, sit-ups, leg press etc. Important is to have a variation of exercise. Then you avoid injures and that your body adapt to the training in a bad way. It is never wrong to have branch specific program. It is better to have 8-12 cycles, to get endurance in the muscles. It is also vital to train the balance. Start with standing on one leg, next step do it with closed eyes. Train to walk on a line…and train on a “slack-line”.

Mental training, here it comes to your approach. If you want to become a mountaineerer there is no trespass. You have to go up early and do endurance training. You must go uphill with heavy back-pack. It is physical training, but also mental. Lugging a car wheel 5.30 a Saturday morning is both physical and mental training. By training that, you combine everything in a good way. You must challenge yourself. If you not living in mountain environment, you can go out when it is snowstorms, you can do skiing on frozen lake in headwind. There is no limitation, except of your fantasy. And of a sudden the exercise become fun…or..:-).

You fantasy is the limitation, prepare your self for the worst…

Mountain navigation training, very important…

Workout bank for endurance, balance and strength:

Cross-country skiing,,

Cross-country skiing with sledge,

Snow shoe running

Snow shoe hill training (with or without back-pack.)

Cross-country running, in one compass direction (set watch for example one hour, and turn back)

Skating with or without back pack.

Skating with sledge.

Running uphill with or without back-pack.

At last three upcoming event to look forward too:

www.everestchallenge.se  A Everest climb in Stockholm…interesting..

http://www.fjallfest.se/ This years event at Storulvån, skiing, event etc.

http://www.vildmarksmassan.se/  fairs of wilderness in Stockholm..

And at the end; this weeks training hit, Train hard and enjoy!!

Keep in touch…

 

A good week with 10 workouts. Got up 05.15 yesterday morning and trailing the weel with a 15kg back-pack in two hours.

Today it will be a blog about motivation. To start with there are two different types of motivation, internal motivation and external motivation. The internal is driven by a willingness and a desire to accomplish something. Three main thing that is needed for to accomplish the goal (or your dream) is: self-confidence, apperent action directed, and a main focus to be able to become motivated. Then the question will be how? Set goals, reward yourself, do continues asssays, view and work with wholes and visualize your results. Keep your focus on your strength, dare to take risks. Challange yourself with your targets, admit your misstakes and understand that you cant know everything.

So to become motivated, to become dedicated, you must have a target. So get your self a target, get motivated and here we go…This is your and your targets year. Go for it….keep focus and you will achieve it…

So now its up to you:-) Get motivated!!

Se ya next sunday…

 

The training follows the plan, and so far, this week it has been 4 workouts. Today I went out on the ice for skating. So  25km, a nice day and a perfect ice…

Januari is a bit tough, Chrismas is over and it is a bit depressing. Its still dark in the mornings…So keep a look on the blog. There will be three chronicle’s to get you more enthusiastic and even more engaged. One about training, one about mental attitude and one about new challenges…

See ya soon…

I woke up early this morning. I started the day with a cross-country workout. During the workout the sun started to slowly rise, a perfect start of the day. In the evening I went to the gym, and the down was coming, and the moon rise. I nice day overall:-). So far  it has been six workout  this week. I summed all my workouts for 2014 and it was totally 389 workouts. A good year. Yesterday there was a real good documentary about Alexander Gamme and his lonely tour to the South pole. If you didn’t see it, look here…highly recommended:-)

http://www.svtplay.se/video/2576901/ensam-mot-sydpolen

Aleksander Gamme

And now its focus for the upcoming event this year…

The mountains are calling and I must go….

I wish you all a happy new year! And here follow this years conclusion i alfabetically:

Albert 1st refuge in Chamonix, a perfect place for training mountaineering technique

Bailey Rob real good workout music…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ue_KQpu7URI

Chamonix, the best place in the world. A great trip this year, again..

Dolomites, a very nice place. Real good Via Ferrata.

E-fit real good training. Tough and varied.

Focus, keep your focus and fulfil your challenges, that will bring you a good life.

Getvalen, the place for contemplation and reflection..

Helags, I really like it. It never makes me disappointed.

Italy, it got it all. The food, the mountains and the beaches. And the best coffee.

Jojk, The movie. Maj Lis Skaltje depicting the Sami’s life and time.

Kernel, what is your lifes kernel? Find out and start fulfil your life-goals..

Lunndörren, we followed a reindeer herd with 100 animals, fantastic. And in the evening the sauna…

Meditation, its so good to have the meditation as a refuge..

No limits this upcoming year, just go for it!!

Obey your dreams.

People on tour. As Torsten Boberg mention: ”Highly nervous individuals or which reveal the slightest hint of mental abnormality should absolutely not go on a strenuous trip to the mountains..”:-)

Quotes about climbing…

http://winterclimb.com/articles/item/1-climbing-quotes/1-climbing-quotes

RescYou, Mammuts new tool to ease the crevasse rescue…

Schwarzhorn, the peak close to Carano. One of my favourite peaks during the summer..Early morning with a fantastic view.

Tuscany, a valley perfect for running. Real nice views..

UILMA a association for mountain leaders, that secures safety and quality …

Vålåstugorna, one of the best mountain cabins in Sweden.

Wordpress, the tool that helped me to get a new homepage:-)

X-cross trainer, thank you Patrik for the three hour work out. Great!

Yolo, You Only Live Ones….

Zero latency it took to make the descion to go to Enafors when my mate couldn’t.

And the training..Me, Mr Wheel and Mr Backpack held a meeting this morning at 05.20. 2 hours tough….Se ya soon:-) And a Happy Adventure Year!!